Seoul has five royal palaces from the Joseon Dynasty. Two of them get almost all the attention: Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung. The question of which one to visit comes up a lot, and most guides give a vague answer like “both are great!” That’s not helpful when you have limited time.
I’ll give you an actual answer.
The Quick Answer (For People Who Just Want It)
Visit Gyeongbokgung first if: you want the iconic Korea photos, you’re interested in the history and scale, you want the full “royal Korea” visual experience, or you have limited time and can only do one.
Visit Changdeokgung first if: you appreciate UNESCO World Heritage sites and secret gardens, you prefer less crowded spaces, you’re going on a weekday and have a few hours to wander slowly, or you’ve already done Gyeongbokgung on a previous trip.
Now the actual explanation.
Gyeongbokgung: The Main Palace
Gyeongbokgung is the big one. Built in 1395 as the primary palace of the Joseon Dynasty, it was burned down (twice, historically), rebuilt, partially destroyed during Japanese colonial rule, and partially restored. The restoration is still ongoing β there are construction scaffolding sections even now, which surprises some visitors.
What you’ll see: the giant Gwanghwamun Gate at the entrance (the one that looks like a castle wall), the vast courtyard behind it, Geunjeongjeon (the throne hall), and a series of other halls and gardens arranged across a genuinely large complex. The mountains behind it β Bugaksan β frame the whole thing in a way that photographs can’t fully capture.
The National Folk Museum is inside the grounds and free to visit with your palace ticket. The National Palace Museum is right next door and worth an hour if you’re interested in the artifacts.
The problem with Gyeongbokgung: On weekends, especially in spring and fall, it is very crowded. The changing of the guard ceremony at the main gate draws substantial crowds at scheduled times. The hanbok rental shops around the gate mean you’ll see a lot of people in rented traditional clothes for Instagram purposes, which is fine but changes the vibe. It can feel more like a tourist attraction than a historical site if you catch it at peak time.
Go on a weekday morning, especially in winter, and it’s a completely different experience β quieter, more contemplative, genuinely impressive.
Admission: 3,000 won for adults. Closed Tuesdays.
Changdeokgung: The More Interesting Palace
This is the honest take: Changdeokgung is more interesting than Gyeongbokgung, but less immediately impressive.
It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the reason it got that status is the Huwon β the Secret Garden β a 78-acre garden at the back of the palace complex that has been maintained for over 400 years. It’s not secret in the sense that you can’t go there; it’s secret in the sense that it was historically the private garden of the royal family. Entry requires a timed tour and costs extra.
The palace buildings themselves are actually more authentic than Gyeongbokgung. More of Changdeokgung survived intact, and what was restored was done more carefully. If you’re interested in the actual architecture of Joseon court buildings β the joinery, the tile work, the way the buildings step down the natural slope β Changdeokgung is where to look.
The Huwon garden tour: you need to book in advance, especially on weekends. Tours are conducted in Korean with some English tours available at limited times. The garden itself is genuinely beautiful β dense, mature trees, ponds, pavilions, a sense of space that’s hard to find in central Seoul. Go in fall for the most remarkable color.
Admission: 3,000 won basic entry + 5,000 won for the Huwon tour. Closed Mondays.
Practical Comparison
| Gyeongbokgung | Changdeokgung | |
|---|---|---|
| Scale | Larger complex | More intimate |
| Crowds | More crowded on weekends | Less crowded overall |
| Photo Value | Higher β more iconic shots | More natural, garden photography |
| Historical Authenticity | More reconstruction | More original structures |
| Must-See Feature | Gwanghwamun Gate, throne hall | Huwon Secret Garden |
| Closed | Tuesdays | Mondays |
| Cost | 3,000 won | 3,000β8,000 won |
If You Can Visit Both
They’re within walking distance of each other β about 15 minutes on foot. Do Gyeongbokgung in the morning (before 10am, when crowds build), walk through Bukchon Hanok Village between them, then enter Changdeokgung for the afternoon Huwon tour. That’s a full day well spent.
Related reading: Bukchon Hanok Village Guide for the walk between them.
The Other Three Palaces (Brief Notes)
Since I brought up Seoul has five:
- Changgyeonggung β Adjacent to Changdeokgung, quieter, has a botanical greenhouse, worth combining if you’re in the area
- Deoksugung β In central city, near City Hall, convenient but smaller, famous for its changing of the guard
- Gyeonghuigung β Often overlooked, least maintained, but free entry and very few tourists β if you want a palace to yourself, this is it
The combined palace ticket (Tonghabgwollam) covers multiple palaces at a reduced rate if you want to be thorough about it.
My Actual Preference
If someone forced me to choose one for a visitor who had never been to Korea before: Gyeongbokgung for the visual scale and the sense of what the capital of Joseon looked like at its height.
If someone who’d already done Gyeongbokgung asked what to do next: Changdeokgung’s Huwon, on a Thursday morning in October, with a reservation booked a week in advance. That version of the experience I’d recommend over almost anything else in the city.
Related: Seoul’s 5 Royal Palaces: Complete Guide | Gyeongbokgung Palace: Complete Visitor’s Guide
